Valderrobres is one of the most picturesque villages in Spain. On arrival – looking across the 15th century stone bridge – the castle and church on top of the hill grab the attention. But, between the river and fortifications, lies a hotchpotch of medieval streets which are enormous fun to explore.
Found in the north-east corner of Teruel province, close to the border with Cataluña, Valderrobres dates back to the Middle Ages. Access to the historic quarter is gained via the Portal de San Roque, the grand gateway which lies at the end of the old bridge. It is flanked by the town hall and Fonda La Plaza, the two buildings dominating the square which lies on the other side. A colonnaded corner invites a look at the town hall, where the dungeons can be visited from Monday to Friday during the mornings (no charge). It offers a fascinating insight into the fate of people who fell foul of the law in centuries past, aided by an image from Goya showing the torment of the prisoners.
Back out in the light, the steep and winding streets of the Old Town beckon. It’s not a huge area to explore so the best experience can be had by simply striking out, with the knowledge that the vertical streets lead upwards towards the castle/church. Ancient stone buildings with strapping wooden doors grab the eye and arrest the attention, making progress slow but immensely enjoyable.
Valderrobres’ jewel is the castle, which has been declared a national monument. It is attached to the Santa María La Mayor church. The two buildings they were constructed in three phases in the 14th and 15th centuries, probably on the site of a previous fortification. Fantastic views of the castle and church can be gleaned from all sides, particularly from the raised ground behind them, which offers panoramic views over the area. The castle has its own website http://www.castillodevalderrobres.com and visits are organised from the museum on Calle Buen Aire, situated at the bottom of the fortress and near the church door. Wandering round the back of the castle allows the walker to see more of the defence walls and to enter the historic quarter via other gateways such as the Portal de Bergos.
While ambling, visitors will be able to hear Catalan spoken in the streets. As with some other ‘frontier towns’ in Aragón region, local people use the language amongst themselves, while also speaking Castilian Spanish.
There are plenty of places to stay in Valderrobres, with the most spectacular being the Fonda La Plaza which is next to the old bridge; this historic building looks over the River Matarraña. It is also a popular restaurant and more details can be found at https://www.fondalaplaza.es
There is a hotel near the historic monuments at the top of the town. Called Hotel El Castell, the name is a nod to the Catalan spoken in the area, with ‘castell’ being castle in that language. More at https://www.hotel-elcastell.es
There are also a number of tourism apartments in the Old Town, and hotels on the other side of the river, where the newer town is situated. More information at www.booking.com
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