On the ‘Vuelta a Sollavientos’ route from Allepuz we had reached the river, blocking the path. At this point we look left. It appears to be an impenetrable wall of rock. But a waymark indicates that it isn’t. There is a natural passageway which goes through. So, bear left to follow the waymarks which lead along the short labyrinth through the rock walls. After entering, walk for several metres. Then the roofless tunnel bears sharp right to continue until it emerges at the riverbank.

It is a narrow passageway, but not really a tight squeeze. And it is enormous fun. So much so that you will probably want to retrace your steps and do this short section again. And again. I did. And continued on my way feeling a childlike joy – grateful and very happy to be in the natural world. Then it’s a short stint along the riverbank, which is also a very pleasant stretch; before a left turn for a short ascent to reach a path just above the river, which then runs parallel to it. It’s another very enjoyable section which finally descends to meet the river once more.

There are signs here which show the range of activities available in the area. One of these is trail running, with four different routes passing through, as shown on a large map board. This time at the river there is no secret passage. It’s shoes and socks off to cross. While I enjoyed this immensely, readers should be aware that the water is cold and can be fast flowing after heavy rain. For this reason the ‘Vuelta a Sollavientos’ route should not be undertaken after a heavy downpour or a lengthy spell of rain.

On the other side there is grass for a sit down while the feet dry – time for a spot of quiet contemplation. With shoes back on, the signs tell us that it is 3.8km to return to Allepuz. This is on a wide track which rises across an open hillside. The track arrives at a mini-plateau. The PR-TE 78 route crosses it, before arriving at a signpost which tells us that we have walked 1.3km from the last river crossing, and have 2.5km left to get back to Allepuz. Continue on the wide track, over a verdant rise then slightly downhill, to a point where the track becomes a grassy path and bears right at a rural property.

Now it’s 1.2km back to the village. The path meanders towards the Sollavientos river valley/ravine once more, running alongside dry stone walls. New signage appears for a ‘botanical’ route which arrives from the village, alongside the PR-TE 78 at this point. The botanical boards provide a wealth of information about local flora and fauna.

Soon the ancient buildings of Allepuz appear in the distance as the path drops towards the river. The path emerges above the watercourse and it’s a short drop down to a bridge – no need to get your feet wet here. Over the other side there is a grassy ascent to the village washhouse; river water is channeled into a covered area where residents would have scrubbed their clothes in the not-too-distant past. From here go up Calle del Dentorillo to meet the road which runs along the bottom of the village, then climb the steps to get to the square which is adorned by the enormous church.

The ‘Vuelta a Sollavientos’ measures 8km, with 240 metres of ascent, and will take between three and four hours due to all the points of interest en route.