Fortanete is in a favourable spot – and is just up the road from Allepuz, the most recently featured destination in Teruel. It’s an attractive village, as the photos show. Terracotta-tiled roofs sit atop ancient stone walls. In the central square the large church backs onto the town hall, historic buildings hailing from the 16th and 17th centuries respectively.
Like most of the province, Fortanete has suffered the effects of depopulation, with young people leaving for the cities. The village reached its zenith in 1877, when 1,759 people resided in the municipality – now there are just 200 on the books. However, it appears to be faring better than some of its neighbours, with two bars and two hotel/hostels. And, at times, there is a hubbub in the streets – children playing games near the square, adults rolling up at the local hostelries wanting coffees or drinks.
It has its own river/stream – the Río Fortanete, which is crossed by one of the most attractive stone bridges in the area, with its single arch. This feeds a tremendously fertile valley. Near the village, intricate dry stone walling abounds, which may have served as corrals for livestock, as well as dividing up the allotments.
Like most of this southern part of Teruel province, Fortanete enjoys a lofty position, standing at an altitude of 1,350 metres. This gives it its character and advantages at certain times of the year. I had the good fortune to visit after a May/June heatwave had relented, over the San Juan bank holiday weekend towards the end of June. The top temperature was a bearable 26°C, with the mercury falling to a luxurious 12°C by 06.00 (6am). It isn’t always so forgiving during the summer months, but in general the cooler nights and fresh breezes allow for walks to be undertaken with some comfort before 13.00. A close eye on the seven-day forecast for the village via state weather agency AEMET (www.aemet.es) will give a good idea of the best time to visit. Study closely and book late if possible, to avoid extreme weather.
It is once again the GR-8 long distance footpath which provides the main basis for walks. It passes through the village, with a stage coming in from Cantavieja and leaving for Valdelinares. There is also the offshoot – the GR-8.1 which gives a wonderful route up to the summit of Capellanía at 1,775 metres. There are also walks on local PR routes.
The main hostelry is Hotel Mercadales, on the edge of the village. They don’t have their own website but can be reached on 978 778 125. There is also Hostal La Muralla, situated in a more historic building, behind the church and near the start of the GR-8.1 – they can be reached on 978 778 297 or 638 530 716 and are also on booking.com
The town hall also has an informative website https://www.fortanete.net
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