It is the dramatic position of Alcalá del Júcar which makes it such an intriguing place to visit. The River Júcar has cut a path through limestone rock, gouging out a wide snaking canyon; the old town stands on an outcrop, high above a meander.
It was the Moors who first saw the potential of its position, constructing a castle on the promontory. It grabs the attention on arrival; the visitor’s eyes are drawn to the fortification, ensuring this will be a focus for exploration.
Parking is down below, on the other side of the river which flows through this Castilla La Mancha town. Many of the hotels are in this ‘new town’ too. The Puente Romano (Roman bridge) crosses the Júcar in style at a point far below the castle. This lovely old bridge that dates back to medieval times has had to be rebuilt on several occasions. An information board notes that ‘tradition dates it to a different era, which was perhaps Roman times’. Here, Acalá is following in a great Spanish tradition of having a ‘Puente Romano’ which wasn’t built by the Romans.
After crossing the bridge, it’s a right turn to head up the Cuesta Hondonera (a ‘cuesta’ is a slope or hill) which leads to the door of the San Andrés church, built in the 1700s. After passing the towering place of worship, it’s a winding ascent through the streets in the direction of the castle. On the way up, cave establishments are signposted, which tunnel back into the limestone hillside. First the Duende, then the Diablo and the Masagó. There is an entry fee (around €4) which includes a free drink in their bars, with all sorts of points of interest inside, including museums, artifacts, restaurants and viewpoints. The Masagó cave is of Moorish origin; it has an ancient wine cellar, three museum areas and offers the opportunity to rent a two-bedroom cave house inside. Information and photos at https://www.cuevasdemasago.com/
At the top of the town, Calle Algarrada leads to the castle gate. The information boards explain that a fortress was probably constructed in the 10th century as part of a strengthening of the border of al-Ándalus (Moorish Spain) which was at war with Christian north. In the year 1213 the castle taken by the troops of Alfonso VIII as part of the Reconquest. The castle was rebuilt in the 15th century to adapt to the changing demands of warfare and has been refurbished in recent times.
Almost all the defence walls can be walked and there is winding interior staircase which goes up to the top of the castle keep, via interior rooms. There are great views from the turrets, over the river canyons and surrounding area. The €3.50 entry fee also gives access to a cave house just below the castle, the ‘Casa-Cueva El Castillo’, which we are told was a ‘typical home in the Júcar valley’. Information boards explain that ‘almost all the old town is formed by cave houses which were excavated with picks and spades by their inhabitants’.
Limestone is a soft rock which is ‘fairly easy’ to work with, they note. Most of the homes have an entry facade which leads to an area dug out of the rock. The original cave houses were made up of one large room, with different sections such as bedrooms, living area, larder, etc. And livestock was kept ‘at the end of the cave’. These homes had a lot of advantages; new rooms could be added by more tunnelling; and perhaps most importantly, they are cool in summer and warm in winter.
“The temperature inside remains constant during the whole year, ranging between 16°C and 18°C,” they state.
Back down below, an irrigation channel follows the river (on the old town side), with a path running alongside it. The walkway passes beneath the church and down to a more modern bridge. It offers interesting views of the Iglesia de San Andrés above and the town. There is also a beach area on the other side of the ‘Roman’ bridge, which is a pleasant place to sit to contemplate the town.
There are great vantage points looking over Alcalá del Río and the river’s canyons, as well as footpaths which run along these ravines. Walk information boards in the area behind the ‘Roman’ bridge show some of the options available (information also from the nearby tourism office). One of these is the waymarked PR-AB 16 footpath which runs up the hillside opposite the castle. It goes to the village of Casas del Cerro.
Named the Sendero El Corciolico, it starts from the signposts, heads across the ‘beach’ area and then along the riverbank path. It’s a short distance to another walk board which reveals that the route is also part of the Camino de la Cruz (the true cross pilgrimage route to Caravaca). Turn left at the sign to go up the steps and emerge at the road. Keep straight on following the roadside for a few metres to the next set of signs pointing up a drive way; after around five metres bear left to go up some steps. Follow the white/yellow waymarks to reach the path.
At first the path is fairly steep. Soon a track appears which is for mountain bikers. This route takes a more gradual path up the slope, which may suit some walkers; it’s a longer, meandering route. The PR-AB 16 takes a more direct route up in this initial stage.
On the next section the PR footpath joins the mountain bike track, which is slower progress with a much more gradual climb. On the winding ascent, the views across to the bridge, the river and the castle on its perch improve as height is gained.
The path goes up to the village of Casas del Cerro (which translates as ‘houses on the hill’), where fantastic views across the Júcar to Alcalá and the river canyons await. There is around 150 metres of ascent to reach the best vantage point, with just over 2km to walk, one way. Return on the same route.
By way of a footnote, I should state that the delights of Alcalá del Júcar have not been lost on the population of Spain. It is on a list of the most beautiful towns in the country and does get very busy at weekends and during holiday periods. A visit during the week outside of August would allow the town to be seen without the hustle and bustle; enjoying the tranquillity.
I should also point out that the River Júcar flows into the Valencia region and enters the sea at Cullera.
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