There are few better towns for an evening stroll than Benasque.
Its historic heart is built from stone and wood. The streets are cool at the height of summer, and the thick walls of homes keep out the cold during winter.
Situated towards the end of a long, wide valley which descends from the France border, Benasque stands at around 1,140 metres above sea level, next to the River Ésera in Huesca province.
Many people who visit are drawn by the profusion of 3,000-metre peaks in the vicinity; the highest mountains in the Pyrenees.
To the east is the Maladeta massif which is home to Aneto (3,404m) and other giants; to the west is the Posets massif, with the peak of the same name reaching 3,375m; and in the nearby Estós valley the Perdiguero massif has its pinnacle at 3,221m. Each of the massifs contains at least a dozen 3,000-metre mountains.
Not surprsingly, Benasque is viewed as the mountain ‘centre’ of the Pyrenees; the start point for expeditions to the most famous summits in northern Spain.
But you don’t have to be a climber to enjoy a wander around the historic centre. It’s flanked by the River Ésera and the Avenida de Francia which heads up the valley towards the border.
This avenue, which contains eateries and bars including Hotel El Pilar, is a good spot to enter the historic quarter; either along the Calle Mayor (Main Street) towards the top of the street or via one of the narrower, less heralded alleys that slip into the Old Town in a more discreet fashion.
A newcomer to Benasque is better off on the Calle Mayor at first, taking note of all the off-shoots as they walk down this lovely old street.
It leads to the Plaza Mayor, down by the river. On reaching the square, continue on to get to more hotels and restaurants, or turn back and enter the off-shoot streets that have caught your eye.
It’s joyful exploring. You will want to lose yourself amongst the old stone buildings, eventually emerging back onto Avenida de Francia to start the process again from a different angle.
One of the sorties will bring you to the Santa Maria church, constructed in the 1200s, which looks particularly beautiful at night (see photo).
Another takes the walker to my favourite small enclave, around the Casa Juste; a fortified residence built in 1567 that has an 18-metre-high tower.
It’s a striking edifice full of mystery and intrigue, which has survived floods and earthquakes.
All of the streets will take you past ancient wooden doors with a character of their own and sturdy old buildings that demand pause for thought.
During daylight, views of the towering peaks that surround Benasque have the same effect.
A stroll around the Old Town is certainly not something that can be rushed.
From off-shoot to up-shoot
Benasque is one of the few towns/villages in rural Spain away from the Costas which has a growing population. In fact it has more inhabitants now than at any time in its history.
The previous peak had come in 1870 when the population reached 1,750, with the lowest recorded number coming 100 years later in 1970 with 574 souls.
It has been rising steadily since the start of the 21st century, with the 1,489 of the year 2000 becoming the 2,362 of 2024.
Winter sports associated with the nearby ski slopes of Cerler and all-year-round walking and mountaineering mean that tourism is booming.
As well as new hotels, this has also meant that Benasque has expanded down the valley towards the village of Eriste; construction that some environmentalists are not happy about.
However, the historic heart of the town remains intact. And it’s a place that I, for one, will never tire of walking round.
Practicalities
Good economical rooms with an excellent half-board option can be found at Hotel El Pilar. More info at https://www.hotelelpilarbenasque.com
There is more luxurious accommodation which will put more strain on your purse, such as Hotel Aneto and Hotel Benasque Spa, with info at https://www.sommoshoteles.com
Benasque can be reached by public transport. From the Costa Blanca take an AVE high-speed train to Madrid and jump on another one to Huesca city. The options can be viewed via https://www.thetrainline.com
In Huesca, the company Avanza currently offers two buses a day from the intermodel station to Benasque departing at 10.45 and 16.15, costing €16.25 and taking 2hrs40mins. Info at https://booking.avanzabus.com/web/step1.php
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