It rained all night in Beariz and the forecast was for the precipitation to continue for most of the day as I walked to Codeseda. The only silver lining was that the last two days of my ‘camino’ were set to be dry and sunny.
My aim was to get through this final wet stage intact.
So I decided to walk on the roads and lanes, only following the true path of the ‘camino’ where flooding was not likely to come into play.
It was a shame, because I would miss some lovely areas of countryside. But, with visibility very limited due to low cloud, that was not troubling me when I set out.
It’s 31km from Beariz to Codeseda with around 600 metres of ascent.
I walked around 1.5km along the OU-212 road to Muradás; then kept on the same highway to Lebozán, where the church clock was stuck at 7.30.
It wasn’t inspiring stuff on the main road in the rain and I was glad to turn off onto a lane which led to A Ermida.
After passing through the village I reached a petrol station and bar on the main road, where I was very happy to get a ‘pincho’ of tortilla and a coffee; and also have a sit down in the warm interior.
With some fuel on board I felt better walking down the main road to Soutelo de Montes.
Here, I met up with the ‘camino’ for a while, passing through the business park and then parting company as I took a minor road, the PO-2205 to O Cachafeiro and on to the bridge over the River Lérez at A Ponte. Then across the road bridge into the small town of Forcarei.
I had coffee and a warm before getting on another back lane, passing through Chamosa and taking more lanes to avoid walking on the EP-7001 main road.
I had views of wonderful wizened trees covered with moss, and rain-soaked hillsides; passing through hamlets such as Liripio.
Inevitably, I had to get on the EP-7001, where I had a brief encounter with the ‘camino’ before the pilgrim route goes off left into low-lying fields inhabited by wild horses.
I stayed on the main road before turning off for A Portela and meeting up with the ‘camino’ once again.
It’s easy walking and well-signed. From A Portela it’s 1.5km to reach the handsome chapel at A Grela; heading for O Coto at first and then seeing the sign at A Grela.
After passing the church, signs tell us it’s 2.9km to Codeseda, also following the PR-G 197.1 footpath.
Follow the arrows, along a lane and then a track. At the top of the rise on the left, see the A Grela cross on its plinth, but our route doesn’t go that way.
Keep following the arrows. The ‘camino’ gets onto a wide, surfaced track and starts the descent to Codeseda, with good views over the area before bearing left to enter the village.
There are a few options for accommodation. I stayed at a small complex of holiday villas, which are in grounds, in the centre of the village.
They are self catering and the owner offers a discount for pilgrims on the trail.
There is an air of fallen grandeur inside the accommodation, but it is good for the price (€25 in cash) and well situated.
The owner can be contacted via WhatsApp on 654 728 266
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