This stage of the walk goes from Agua Amarga to Las Negras. It’s not a long day, approximately 13.5km of walking, with around 500 metres of ascent.
The main highlights are the three wonderful coves that the route visits; Cala de Enmedio, Cala del Plomo and Cala de San Pedro. All wild, virgin beaches which are a long way from roads.
The clock on the day’s hike will depend on how much time you spend in each of the coves; allowing around six hours for the route is a reasonable assumption, with four hours of that made up by walking.
We leave Agua Amarga by crossing the ‘rambla’ watercourse and walking along Calle Depósito, where a sign points up the lane for Cala de Enmedio.
At the top of Calle Depósito an information board offers a map and details about the route to Cala de San Pedro. The suggestion that it’s 3.5km to San Pedro is wildly inaccurate (more like 7km).
Pass to the left of the board to go straight up the rocky hillside on a path, soon picking up the white/blue waymarks.
The waymarked path heads over the top and along a flat, grassy area, before reaching a fork. An X marks the path on the left and this is where we walk down to Cala de Enmedio.
It’s not a difficult descent but it’s not one that can be rushed (the pilgrim route goes right at the fork, which is a longer way down to the cove).
Take the grassy entrance to the Cala de Enmedio. The ‘cove in the middle’ is one of the most beautiful on the Spanish coast.
It is worth having a good explore. The white cliffs are truly amazing and have been fashioned into weird and wonderful shapes by erosion.
You could easily while away a day at this spot; swimming, reading and contemplating life. But time may be against you.
Exit Cala de Enmedio on the track, heading inland towards a half-finished building. At least 100m before reaching the building, turn left on the pilgrim trail for the traverse across to Cala del Plomo.
It’s 1.5km from Enmedio to Plomo. It’s a pleasant waymarked path through the esparto grass to a fertile valley which runs down to the Plomo cove.
The path reaches a wide track in the valley (see a sign pointing back for Enmedio). Turn left here to walk down the track to the beach.
Cala del Plomo is another extraordinary spot, with curling cliffs and crystal-clear water.
Access is a bit easier than to Cala de Enmedio so you may see some campervans here.
Part 2 follows
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