Don’t let the headline confuse you. Because there are a lot more than seven. The stone pillars stretch across the landscape like some baffling expression of pagan worship. In the vast emptiness of Teruel they seem eerie and the first question that springs to mind is ‘why are they here?’
A bit of research reveals that they were constructed in the 18th century in order to prevent travellers from getting lost (nothing to do with druids). This is high mountain country. Allepuz stands at nearly 1,500 metres above sea level, and much of the area around the village is over 1,600 metres. This means that for part of the year it is covered in snow. Mist and fog can also descend at will.
It was for this reason that local people decided to erect the two-metre-high pillars in a line leading from Allepuz to the village of Villarroya de los Pinares, which is 7.6 kilometres away. It was quite a feat for a small community in the 1700s and who can question their widsom. The pillars have stood the test of time, but only just in some cases. Despite the climatic conditions – intense cold in the winter, storms aplenty and heat in the summer – most of them have kept their shape.
The walking route is called the ‘Camino de los Pilones’ and, although it’s not the greatest hike you will ever come across, it is one that can be fitted into an afternoon, or a short space of time between better things. One of the main attractions is its historical interest. It has been named a BIC – which is the acronym in Spanish for a ‘Bien de Interés Cultural’. This means that it is of historic cultural interest and also protected under legislation.
You probably won’t want to walk all the way to Villarroya (and back) but you might want to venture up to the higher ground, following the ancient pillars, for a bit of history and some good views from the ridge.
The route
We start from the same place as the ‘Vuelta a Sollavientos’ route, which is outside the Hospedería Palacio de Allepuz. The signpost is in the street in front of the ‘palace’. It’s a left turn to ascend out of Allepuz. The next sign on the edge of the village is also a left turn.
The street emerges at a grassy spot above the village. Keep straight on, following the dry stone wall towards the limestone outcrop. Just before the rock ledge, bear left to follow the passageway which leads up to a pillar.
This tall structure marks the beginning (and end) of the long line of stone structures stretching for several kilometres. The signpost reveals that our route goes straight on, although the pillars which have been there for centuries also offer a good clue as to the direction that needs to be taken. The route is on a wide track which is gently undulating. It continues across the high plain; there is some farming but not much else to excite the eye. Some of the pillars have started to crumble.
A ridge appears on the horizon – manna from heaven in the featureless landscape. It’s not a big climb up to the top, an ascent of around 100 metres (height gain). Better views can be enjoyed from the ridge line. The pillars stretch into the distance towards a wooded area. Continue straight on through the trees, where a sign explains that 3.5 km have been traversed from Allepuz. Less than 1km further on, the line of pillars points towards Villarroya. At this juncture, the walker will have to decide whether to continue on the downhill run towards the village, or start the return to Allepuz.
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