From the vantage point high above Playa de Mónsul, pick your way down the slope to the beach. The route moves slightly to the right on the descent.
You will probably want to have an explore of the beach and maybe a sit down in the shade provided by the curling volcanic rock in order to gird your loins for the next part of the walk.
Out of the back of the beach, we cross the grass on the left to get to the posted walkway which bears right to go up to the wide track (and the building). Vehicles can reach Mónsul from San José on this track.
Bear left on the track. At the walkboard, we are told that it’s 3.5km from this point to reach the Vela Blanca watchtower which stands at a height of 212 metres.
After around 1km, we pass the parking area and barrier which prevents vehicles going any further, starting the long steady climb to the tower.
Views back along the coast improve as height is gained. From the track we can admire the pitted volcanic rock faces which look like giant Swiss cheeses.
At the top we are standing at the south-eastern tip of Iberia. One coastline veers away to the west, while the shore we have just walked along goes north.
It’s a point of geographical significance and feels like an important place on the map.
The Vela Blanca was the ultimate coastal watchtower, positioned in a spot with all-encompassing views.
Sadly it has been fenced off. Sitting on the steps, staring out to sea and admiring the sweeping panoramas, was a very enjoyable experience. Nowadays we have to make do with gleaning the vistas from the sides.
Leaving the watchtower, it feels like you are leaving the Cabo de Gata behind. This is true in one sense, because it’s almost the end of the Sierra del Caba de Gata.
But the natural park and the protected area continues further along the coast, albeit in a very different fashion on the coastal plain.
It’s a winding route down from the Vela Blanca, as the track descends towards the lighthouse.
We pass to the right of the lighthouse; you may have the energy for an exploratory detour and visit, but bear in mind that a very good fish lunch awaits not too far away, with a cut-off time of around 15.30 for the last sitting.
The track goes down to the road, where we turn right. Unfortunately, there is no alternative and we have to spend a couple of kilometres on the main road to get to La Almadraba de Monteleva.
It’s a steady climb at first. Once the ascent is out of the way, a new view appears. This one goes west; over the Cabo de Gata salt lagoons, along the coast and to the mountains in the far distance which may be snow-capped.
Mercifully, we come to a turning on the left which allows us to get off the main road for a short section which goes into the village of La Almadraba; first of all next to the beach and then along a boardwalk.
There are several fish restaurants and bars to choose from in La Almadraba. They may be busy, depending on the day of the week. This is a favourite spot for weekend seafood consumption for Almería city dwellers.
It was a Sunday when I walked through and I wasn’t able to get a table at first restaurant, El Parque.
But further down the street that runs along the shore I was able to sit down at Bar-Restaurante Las Orillas del Mar.
As the name suggests, sea views are guaranteed. I had a tasty tomato salad and a wonderful plate of sardines, which set me up for the final leg of the day’s walk.
La Almadraba marks the beginning of the coastal plain; and the way ahead is completely flat.
The main road runs straight along the coast to the town of San Miguel de Cabo de Gata, which is usually shortened to just Cabo de Gata.
After lunch and maybe a beverage or two, you will be in no rush to get there.
It’s slow progress walking on the soft sand (there are very few hard bits!) but you will probably stick it out on the beach for a kilometre or two next to the crashing surf before moving across to head along the wide space next to the road.
The San Miguel watchtower provides a sighter and it gradual gets closer as we move towards the town.
Cabo de Gata isn’t particularly beautiful but it has a pleasant promenade and an attractive collection of fishing boats near the entrance to the town.
I stayed at Pensión Navas which is clean and economical; they take reservations via booking.com
And, if you are in time, you can settle down at one of the bars on the promenade to watch the spectacle of the sun sinking into the sea.
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