Echo valley; conquer the castle
Like a famous mountain in the south of Spain named after a fortified structure, the Castillo d’Archer (Archer’s castle) looks impossible to climb from many angles. However, every castle has a gate, and – in the same way that the summit of Alcazaba (the...
A ski resort that became a village
Candanchú is officially a ski resort. But as it was inaugurated in 1928, it has become an established village over the last century and even has a small military base. It stands above the valley formed by the River Aragón and ice ages, with the historic city of Jaca...
8 pass walk via Lizara part 1
My favourite walk from Candanchú is on the new route of the GR-11. It is possible to do a very long all-day walk, which goes to Lizara mountain refuge, continuing to the Estanés glacial lake and returning to the village on the old GR-11. However, this takes at least...
8 pass walk via Lizara part 2
It is 5km from Lizara up to the next pass, the Puerto de Bernera at 2,115m, passing through another fantastic mountain area. The path climbs to the wide entrance to the Bernera ravine, and bears left to ascend along the left side of the wide gulley. The terrain...
The walk to the wall
This walk – starting from Candanchú – is a cracker. There are elements which would present difficulties to people who are not regular mountain walkers. But those who already have their ‘sea legs’ around summits will enjoy the challenge and the stupendously beautiful...
Bordering on the sublime
This is another terrific ridge walk, right on the border with France. It is similar to the one in the Echo valley, along rolling green hills which allow unencumbered walking on a path above 2,000 metres with captivating views. The route starts from Candanchú village,...
Take a look at the Tena valley
Running north from the town of Sabiñanigo to the France border, the Tena valley has three exceptional bases for hiking. Staying in Sallent de Gállego, Formigal or Panticoso, walkers have a network of routes on their doorstep. The GR-11 trans-Pyrenean footpath is an...
Pictures of Panticosa
I have fond memories of Panticosa, many of them from stays in the winter months. Although it is now a ski station, the village still has its ‘ancient’ core; a small area of magical old streets which nestle below towering summits. Sitting at home writing...
Seeing Sallent
Sallent de Gállego is one of the classic Pyrenees village/towns; it gets a mention alongside names such as Benasque, Torla and Bielsa. It is a historic settlement, positioned towards the top of the Tena valley at a height of 1,305 metres. The fantastically-named Aguas...
Ordesa and Monte Perdido
Some of the most incredible scenery in Spain lies in and around the Ordesa y Monte Perdido national park. The protected natural space measures some 89,000 hectares and the area includes the Bujaruelo valley; the monumental canyons of Ordesa and Añisclo; Roland’s...
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