This is another wonderful stage along the rugged and wild shore of the Costa da Morte. At 18km in length, it allows the walker to factor in a lunchtime meal, if they want one.
The day’s route goes from Laxe to Arou village, with good eating options in the port of Camelle just short of the destination.
The walk starts at the harbour in Laxe and passes the Santa María de Atalaia church.
This 16th century place of worship is one of the landmarks of the Coast of Death; it looks lonely, bleak even, watching over the port; a reminder of how fishermen face a perilous sea and need all the help they can get to stay alive when the weather is against them.
At the back of the church a sign points for the Faro (lighthouse) and we head up Rúa Hospital.
Then bear right to follow the Faro sign again, heading out towards the headland, the Punta Insua.
The short-distance PR-G 70 route with white/yellow waymarks points the way out along the headland.
Information boards explain about how the famous gooseneck barnacles are harvested on this rocky shore. They grow in ‘highly oxygenated’ sea water on rocks which are exposed to strong currents and rough weather; this is what makes the collection process such a dangerous job.
The path goes round the headland to the Laxe lighthouse; expansive views down the Ría de Corme y Laxe can be enjoyed on the way there.
After the lighthouse, there is a grassy section on the headland which turns into a track, running back towards Laxe.
Following the green arrows, bear right to pass the cemetery and follow the path along the grassy coast.
It is just over 1km along the undulating shore to reach the climb up the Peñón de Castro hill. There are wonderful views from the top, back to Laxe and along the Soesto beach which is to come.
The path drops down to and then runs along the Praia de Soesto, which is a favourite with surfers. We walk along the shore, shoes and socks off.
At the end of the beach the route goes up onto the headland to traverse it along the coast.
It’s a good wide path which heads towards the next long beach on the route; to do this, the path joins a wide track, where a sign for the PR-G 114 appears. It notes that the village of Boaño is 2.5km distant.
Follow the wide track towards Boaño, turning off right for the beach and the Traba lagoon area, which is a favourite with bird watchers.
Take the boardwalk which goes through the lagoon area at the back of the beach; at the end of it bear right to cross the dunes and reach the beach. Then follow the shore to the end of the beach.
Part 2 comes next
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