Continuing our exploration of the Maestrazgo region of Teruel, the new base for walks is Allepuz. This small village is handily placed between four other of our walking destinations; Mora de Rubielos, Fortanete, Valdelinares and Cantavieja. If you are considering a grand tour of Templar country, then this is one that should be added to the itinerary.
Allepuz is fairly typical of the villages in the area, in that it occupies a lofty and dramatic position in the limestone landscape. Perched on high, at nearly 1,500 metres above sea level, the village looks down into the valley/gorge of the River Sollavientos which cuts a path through the rock and provides us with a wonderful walk on the PR-TE 78 footpath.
The narrow streets are home to around 130 people, according to the municipal census. The enormous cathedral-like church in the main square – the Nuestra Señora de la Purificación – looks like it could serve a population 50 times that size. The town hall website explains that in the year 1900 a total of 1,040 people lived in the municipality. Like other villages in this region, depopulation has taken its toll.
Just above the village we can see a fine old farmstead which has been abandoned. These ‘masía’ provided a living – and a tough but sustainable way of life for inhabitants all over the province. In this municipality alone only half a dozen out of around 40 of these farmsteads are now occupied, according to local figures. A sign of the decline in population is that Allepuz does not have a bakery – an essential component of everyday village life. A travelling ‘bread man’ turns up in the morning in the main square to sell his wares. He does a good trade; he has a captive audience.
The 16th century ‘palace’ which stands a couple of streets higher than the church harks back to times of plenty (for some). Now tourism has become a lifeline for many who remain in Allepuz and, although the conversion of the ‘palace’ into a hotel may not have pleased the purists, it has led to the restauration of a historic building and brought jobs.
The Hotel Hospedería Palacio de Allepuz isn’t cheap to stay in, but it is a pleasure to spend time inside the strapping walls and imagine what life must have been like here 500 years ago. More information on the hotel can be found at www.hospederiaallepuz.es
The village also has Hostal Paquita which stands next to the church. The pension doesn’t have a website but can be contacted on 978 778 198, or 660 287 403. Also bookings can be made via booking.com
Read about the walking routes in the following articles
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