There are a number of towns/villages in the Maestrazgo area which visitors can use as a base for walking. They form a cluster around the highest mountains in Teruel province. The ones highlighted in the following posts are Mora de Rubielos, Allepuz, Fortanete, Valdelinares and Cantavieja. The GR-8 long-distance footpath links up most of these villages so a multi-day walk is definitely on the cards too.
Mora de Rubielos (not to be confused with nearby Rubielos de Mora) is our first port of call. If you were to drive through this small town on the A-228 you probably wouldn’t be very impressed. However, it is worthy of much closer inspection. Off the rather uninviting main thoroughfare, there are enclaves which are rich in history. The most obvious is the strapping 14th century castle which rises above all the other buildings around it. The influence of the Knights Templar is found here too. Pope Clement V reluctantly dissolved the order in 1312 and their property and considerable assets were given to rivals, the Knights Hospitallers. Their ‘maestro’ (master), Juan Fernández de Heredia, bought Mora de Rubielos and built the formidable fortress, which can be visited via the tourist office www.moraderubielos.com/index.php/que-ver/oficina-de-turismo
Close-by is the 14th century Santa María la Mayor church which backs onto the wonderful Plaza de la Raza. Then an archway in the square leads to the river. A stroll around these monuments – and the streets next to the town walls and properties along the river – is an enjoyable way to while away a few hours.
Also worth mentioning is the truffle; known as the ‘black gold’ of the area due to its high market price. They are not to everyone’s liking. But, as they are a local speciality, it is worth indulging if you have the time and means. There is even a hotel in Mora named after the delicacy – La Trufa Negra, which does special menus with truffles, with more information at www.latrufanegra.com
A luxury experience with the truffle is offered at the rural hotel, Masia la Torre, which is outside the town. More information at https://masialatorre.es
There are also budget options for truffle-less accommodation which can be found via booking.com
Onwards and upwards, the road journey through the heart of the Maestrazgo is a spectacular one. It should also be noted that the roads could be covered in snow and ice during the winter.
The A-228 leads to Alcalá de la Selva, the start point of two of the walks, but not an overnight destination. Continue on the A-228 to the Allepuz junction, where it’s a right turn to get on the A-226, with Allepuz less than 1km from the turn off. This attractive village is on our agenda; as is Fortanete which is around 15 minutes further along the A-226. From Fortanete it is possible to take a minor road over to Valdelinares (Spain’s highest village) or continue along the A-226 on the high mountain road to another wonderful spot, Cantavieja.
Mora de Rubielos
A whole host of footpaths can be found in the Mora de Rubielos area.
These can be viewed via the webpage gudarjavalambre.es/municipios-gj/mora-de-rubielos/senderos
The route outlined here is from Mora to Alcalá de la Selva on the GR-8.
As already stated, the GR-8 long-distance footpath runs through the area and is a great resource. Of the 16 GR-8 stages in Aragón region, this is number 13 (etapa 13). A handy interactive map of the route can be found at the webpage https://senderosturisticos.turismodearagon.com/senderos/gr8
The notes on this stage state that the distance one-way from Mora to Alcalá de la Selva is 18.5km. Likely enough you will decide not to go all the way to Alcalá, with the return on the same path. It is, therefore, up to the individual to decide when to turn around and head back to base.
The route could best be described as gently undulating, with one longish ascent. The height gain is 575 metres heading out, but only 205m coming back, with Alcalá at a higher altitude than Mora. It is a walk which shows off the immense proportions of this inland province. The empty ‘masía’ farmsteads which dot the landscape are evidence that people are deserting the hard life on the high plains, although there are still herds of livestock and tilled fields around about.
Although not the most dramatic route in the area from a visual point of view, there is still plenty in this limestone landscape to gaze on.
The route
The GR-8 leaves Mora from a point below the castle, next to the River Mora on Calle Río y Nevera, at the exit arch through the town walls from Plaza de la Raza. Take the bridge over the river, with the white/red waymarks now in evidence, marking the route. The waymarks take the walker up an attractive walled lane (see photo), heading away from the town buildings, with views across to the strapping castle.
Follow the country lane, which leads to a track, then continues to a road that has to be crossed. The path runs parallel to the TE-V 8021 road and then moves to the right to enter the Barranco de las Casas – a shallow ravine, with a very pleasant and gentle ascent up the right-hand side of it, through pine trees. Notice the stone flood defences in the bed of the ravine to help protect against torrents during intense rainfall. The path climbs for around 1km to reach a wide track. Soon a GR-8 sign reveals that it is 4km back to Mora and 14.5km to Alcalá. As the countryside opens out, the walker has more of a sense of being in the raised hinterland of Spain. This is limestone country and ridges ahead show the typical rock formations.
Use the interactive map to check for a slightly hidden right turn off the track to follow the GR-8. If you miss it, don’t worry as the track will also take you to the small hermitage of San Antonio and the adjacent inhabited farmstead (masía). The route passes through the small complex.
Then it’s on to the Masía de la Olmedilla, a magnificent old farmstead which has fallen into disrepair. From here, the track bears right and soon the ascent starts. It’s a height gain of just over 100 metres to reach another high plateau.
Here there are good views and possible sightings of ibex to be had, as well as wandering cattle. After the Nava Baja farmstead, the track starts to descend. The walker will have to decide if this is the point to return to Mora, or if they want to continue on towards Alcalá for a while longer.
The return walk is on the same path.
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