Day 3 – Restanca to Colomers
This is a much shorter day, a welcome break for the legs. Despite the lack of length, spectacular mountain scenery abounds from start to finish, predictably with lots of lakes. Any day of walking which is spent entirely above 2,000 metres can only be a very good one. There are two terrific passes to reach and a long descent to Colomers lake. The route is not on the official GR-11, rather on the GR-11.18. This appears to be the favoured way nowadays for many walkers on the trans-Pyrenean hike; not surprisingly as it is not one to miss.
It is important to be able to do the climb up from Restanca on fresh legs because it is uncompromisingly beautiful and tiredness should not be a distraction. Head out of the back of the hostel, on a straight line from the dam, walking eastwards. The climb to the pass measures 2.6km and there is slightly less than 500 metres of ascent. The pass has two names (of course); Port de Oelhacrestada and Port de Rius. The steepest bit comes first, but it is still very enjoyable climbing, following the stream up to the first glacial lake of the day, the Estany de Cap de Port at 2,230m. The path follows the left bank of the glacial lake and then embarks on the second ascent of the day up to the pass. It a wonderful view from the top looking back over the lake.
The next section is mountain walking heaven. Grassy pasture at a considerable height, as the path moves across an undulating area beneath the summit of Montardo (2,833m). There are two glacial lakes below and away to the right, first Monges and then Mangades. The path rises to a point known as the Pales de Port de Caldes, before decending around 100 metres in height to the Port de Caldes glacial lake and then embarking on the climb to the Port de Caldes pass at 2,568m, which is around 150 metres of ascent. This is the high point of the day, again a spot with wonderful views around the four points of the compass.
The descent to Colomers lake is just over 2.5km. Again, an enjoyable section which gets even better towards the bottom, following the stream on grassy banks. Approaching the lake, turn right to reach the mountain refuge.
The route measures 7.1km, with 640 metres of ascent and will take between three and five hours, depending on stops
Day 4 – Colomers to Espot
The morning starts with another dam to cross, which leads to the far side of Colomers lake, now back on the main GR-11. On the other side bear left to follow the GR signs, and to embark on the short climb up to the Coret de Cloto, where the path bears right to enter another quite incredible section of high mountain country, with lakes coming thick and fast. The path runs along the right bank of the Estanh Long, following the lake to its end, before passing the smaller Estanh Redon, and then starting the gradual climb up the grassy slope to the magnificent Estanh Obago.
After Obago the path bears to the left before starting the long and lovely climb up to the Ratera pass. There is just under 400 metres of ascent to be done over 2km. It is not back breaking and regular stops are needed to look back over the lakes, with ever improving views as height is gained. The high ground at the pass at 2,594m is an incredible spot; wide, grassy and undulating, with extraordinary views over the surrounding area and peaks.
It is a great place to while away an hour; exploring and then with a drink or picnic, gazing over the vistas.
The descent from the Ratera pass is almost as spectacular as the route up. There are more glacial lakes and the path follows a stream through rocky and then verdant countryside. Ignore any turn offs from the GR-11. The first of the lakes on the way down is the Estany del Port de Ratera, with the path passing high to the left of it. The Ratera ravine becomes more verdant as altitude is lost and the path is never far from the stream and crosses it on several occasions. A boardwalk helps out when the ground is marshy. Towards the bottom of the ravine is the Estany de les Obagues de Ratera, with the path passing on the left of the lake and heading into the trees.
Another very enjoyable boardwalk section leads to a track, where it’s a left turn to walk past the Estany de Ratera and then head down the track, with views of the Sant Maurici lake appearing on the right. The route passes the bottom of the lake and its dam, where it bears left to follow the wide track which descends and then heads through a wonderful ancient forest. After the forest there is an option to walk down the shady road to Espot if it is a hot day, using the footbridge on the right to cross. The GR-11 runs down the left-hand side of the Escrita river (the mountain road is on the other bank).
There is 19.7km to cover to reach Espot, with around 600 metres of ascent, which will take between seven and eight hours.
Day 5 – Espot to La Guingueta
This is least inspiring of the five days, leaving the lakes behind but still continuing on that prince of footpaths, the GR-11. It is just under 10km from Espot to reach La Guingueta d’Àneu, with around 240 metres of ascent.
The footpath leaves from the centre of Espot, following the right bank of the River Escrita on a wide track for just over 2km. Then the track bears left to cross the river on a bridge. The GR-11 crosses the road and then heads up to the village of Estais. Then it’s both footpath and country road to get up to the village of Jou, before bearing right for the descent to La Guingueta d’Àneu.
Practicalities
For public transport to the walk start point, buses run from Huesca city to Benasque. It is a direct service run by the company Avanza, but there is only usually one a day at weekends, two during the week (10.45 and 16.15). It takes 2h40mins. Times subject to change. They have an app and website www.azanzabus.com Trains, including the high-speed AVE, run to Huesca from Madrid.
Leaving, the company Alsa run the buses from La Guingueta d’Àneu to Barcelona and Lleida. The bus starts from nearby Esterri d’Àneu. Alsa can be found at www.alsa.es or via their app
A varierty of hotels are available in Benasque via booking.com. There is also Camping Aneto, which has chalets and pitches www.campinganeto.com There are several options in Espot, including campsites. I like Pension Casa Palmira, which also has good food; handily the GR-11 leaves Espot from outside their front door www.hostalpalmira.com
The most important thing is to book the mountain refuges beforehand. Cap de Llauset is at www.refugiodellauset.es
The two other refuges can be found at www.lacentralderefugis.com
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