Enemy soldiers approaching Morella in centuries past would have trembled at the sight of this fortified town.
If they managed to breach the towering walls, then surely the castle on the cone of rock at its centre would prove impregnable.
However, despite its fearsome aspect, the defences were occasionally overrun; sometimes with the help of fifth columnists inside Morella – on one remarkable winter’s day in January 1838 during the First Carlist War, royalist soldiers were able to enter with the help of a deserter and a huge snowfall by passing through a hole high on the castle wall which served as a toilet.
The gap can be seen from the path which goes round the foot of the walls, where it is described on a sign as a ‘flying latrine’ (bottoms out, make way below!).
Nowadays, access is gained to Morella via one of the gates; there are seven of them in the two kilometres of walls which still completely surround the town and measure between 10 and 15 metres in height.
Perhaps the best way to do it is by parking in the public car park behind the town and heading up the steps to pass through the Portal de la Nevera. This gate is near the top of Morella and most of the streets head downhill from here.
Ancient Morella
The first settlers arrived in the Bronze age. Then came Iberians, Romans and Visigoths. The Moors also left their mark, before the armies of the Reconquest took the town.
This mix of invaders, settlers and cultures can be seen in the streets, where the narrow alleys of the Jewish Quarter (La Juderia) link wider colonnaded thoroughfares which are home to historic buildings, shaded bars, restaurants and shops.
The layout of Morella’s streets seems to defy logic, which makes it a special place.
The alleys were there long before town planning could attempt to bring order; and the Romans had no influence on the design.
As a result, exploring is a joyful experience. As long as you have your bags stowed in your hotel, you will enjoy making sense of the mayhem.
It helps if you are a regular walker. Some of the streets are steep. Ascents can be cobbled or stepped.
I watched a lady in her 80s climbing a street on a hot August evening, wondering if I should offer to help but knowing she would be offended if I asked. She’d done that ascent more times than my head has touched a pillow.
Like everywhere in Spain today, Morella can get very warm in summer. But its height helps in this respect. The parade ground at the top of the castle, at an altitude of 1,070 metres, is only 15 metres short of the summit of Snowdon.
Breezes blow in and there is very little humidity. Shade is easy to find in the streets. And in winter snow still comes to Morella.
Securing a map from the tourism office in Plaza Sant Miquel, near the Sant Miquel gate at the top of the town, is a good option. It can save time.
Otherwise, it is equally enjoyable trying to plot a course around the streets; as long as you have plenty of time to get to know Morella and not miss out on any of its secrets.
Read about the visit to the castle and the walk around the walls in following reports.
Practicalities
There is plenty of accommodation in Morella. If you fancy staying in a historic building then Hotel Cardinal Ram is a good option.
It’s quite pricey but it’s in a wonderful position, with enormously thick stone walls that have graced Morella for more than 500 years. More information at https://www.hotelcardenalram.es
A good budget option not far away is the Fonda Moreno. Next to the Post Office (Correos) and one of the best alleys of the Jewish Quarter, it is also a cafe and restaurant. More info at https://www.lafondamoreno.es
There are buses from Monday to Friday from Castellón bus station operated by the company Autos Mediterráneo. According to the town hall, these depart at 10.15am and 15.30.
The public car park at the top of the town costs €3 for eight hours, running between 10.00 and 18.00. If you park at 15.00, for example, the remaining five hours run from 10.00 the next day, meaning you would have until 15.00. It lies off the CV-1160, then turn sharp right onto Cta. Trinquete.
Morella is in the mountainous north of Castellón province, close to the border with Cataluña. There is good walking to be had in nearby Els Ports mountains. The GR-7 long distance footpath passes through Morella and heads into the hills.
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