For this route from Villahermosa del Río it’s back on the GR-7, which – as long-distance routes go – is extraordinarily long, spanning several European countries. However, our ambitions (at the moment) are not so grand, and we will content ourselves with a walk to the hermitage of San Bartolomé, passing a venerated pine tree en route. It’s 6.7km one way, with ample opportunity for a sit down and lunch (take your own) at the shady destination, before returning on the same path. One thing to bear in mind is that there is around 500 metres of ascent.
There is much to admire, starting with the extensive allotments on the edge of the village, and then the wonderful views back over Villahermosa del Río as height is gained, which allow the walker to observe the summit of Peñagolosa (1,814m) in the distance. The GR-7 traverses a pine forest where the enormous cones are the size of small rugby balls, before open country leads to a shallow ravine and a stream that guides us to the hermitage, which is another pilgrimage site. Orientation can be ‘finicky’ – you will need to keep a close eye on the white/red waymarks of the GR in some spots. In the summer an early start (as close to dawn as possible) is imperative to properly enjoy the route without overheating.
The walk
The start point can be found on the CV-175 – the road which links Villahermosa del Río to nearby Teruel province. The GR-7 sign on the road stands in front of the Ruta de Aragón pension, where you may well be staying. It’s an inauspicious beginning, with the path that descends the short slope from the road being in poor repair. This section is only about 10 metres in length, but you may prefer to continue north along the road for around 50 metres to walk down to the wide valley of the River Villahermosa on a surfaced lane.
When down the slope, bear left to reach the old stone bridge, and cross it, now following the signs for Pino Cacho and Paraje San Bartolomé. After the bridge, the lane bears left again and runs between an irrigation channel and orchards/allotments. Approaching the farm buildings, bear right following the walk signs. Follow the lane through the farm complex and soon afterwards see the sign which marks a turn-off left into the ravine. It’s a concrete track, which turns into an unsurfaced track as it passes the impressive rock formations, then bears left and follows a fence as it ascends, with waymarks to help with orientation. This is a short section of only several hundred metres, with the track ascending to reach a lane which runs up to the road. Follow the waymarks to reach the road. But before doing so, it is worth having a look back over the village and the mountains behind.
Turn right at the road; it’s only a very short distance on the CV-197 before we cross it to take the signposted track on the left which ascends through the pine trees. In places it is fairly steep. Gaining height, when there are gaps through the trees, the views across to the summit of Peñagolosa (1,814m) get even better.
Stick on the wide track, ascending through the pines. The route reaches a GR-7 sign for a turn-off right onto a wide, waymarked path through the trees. In the sections where the pines relent, the views back over the village are terrific. It’s varied walking – partly rocky, partly verdant pine, as the path continues to climb, emerging at the wide track once again to continue the ascent, with help from the white/red waymarks.
From the village it is 3.6km to reach the Pino Cacho. This is another ‘holy’ spot for the locals, and a site of pilgrimage on the first Sunday in May each year. The story behind it is an interesting one. The Pino Cacho, as the name suggests, is a pine tree – and a very old one, which is still in situ and measures 10.6 metres in height. It is also known as the ‘protector pine’ (pino protector). The reason for this is that around 100 years ago a swarm of locusts laid waste to the farmland and countryside around Villahermosa. The local people promised to erect a monument if the plague was halted before it reached the livestock trail (now the route of the GR-7), where this ancient black pine (Pinus nigra) stands. And, miraculously, it was stopped.
So the Pino Cacho is credited with saving the day and now the pine tree is venerated for its troubles. A small building of homage has been erected just a few metres away on the other side of the livestock trail, providing shade for the pilgrims and other lost souls who may be wandering through the area.
It’s 6.7km to San Bartolomé hermitage, so we are just over half way there.
Part 2 comes next
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