No trip to the Torla-Ordesa area would be complete without a foray into the Bujaruelo valley. It is home to my favourite camping ground in Spain, on the banks of the River Ara at San Nicolás de Bujaruelo, where there is also a walkers’ hostel made of Pyrenean stone. Next to it is a 13th century refuge for pilgrims and a hermitage, which are no longer in use.
To reach the hospitality from the right bank of the river, walkers cross over one of the most beautiful stone bridges in the Pyrenees, which also dates from the 13th century. From the middle of the single-arch structure they can gaze into the clear waters and spot the occasional trout. There is a pool beneath it, which is a great spot for swimming; afterwards drying off on the grassy banks. Or walkers can remove boots/shoes for a paddle in the healing mountain river. An added bonus is that the refuge produces some very tasty meals for all comers as well as offering beds/rooms.
Standing at an altitude of 1,340 metres, cool nights and early mornings can be enjoyed in summer while the rest of the country swelters in the heat. The area is surrounded by colossal summits which soar to 3,000 metres. Lying back on the grass and looking up at the peaks is humbling and entrancing; a good way to while away an hour or more.
As is often the case, the GR-11 long-distance footpath offers some terrific options. And there are many other routes up valleys and to the passes and peaks. One of the most enjoyable walks is the GR-11 towards Baños de Panticosa. The path follows the grassy banks of the River Ara as it progresses up the Ara valley. The path gradually gains height as it moves towards the awesome Vignemale massif, where there is a line of peaks over 3,000 metres, with the highest at 3,299m, flanked by the Ossoue glacier. Just before the mountains, the GR-11 doglegs left to cross the river, climbing up and over to Baños. It’s a wonderful area to explore, map in hand. An interactive map of the GR route can also be viewed here https://senderosturisticos.turismodearagon.com/senderos/gr11 under Etapa 07: Balneario de Panticosa – San Nicolás de Bujaruelo
Another great route is the walk up to the Bujaruelo pass at the border at 2,273 metres. Up at the pass, the walker has options. They can descend into the beautiful Pouey d’Aspé valley in France; the path heads for the stone hut, the Cabane des Soldats (soldiers’ cabin) which stands at 1,954m, returning on the same route.
Or head up to Roland’s breach (2,807m) on another clear path; the views are incredible as the route looks over the Cirque de Gavarnie near the Sarradets mountain refuge. The final ascent to the Brecha de Rolando is across a snowy glacier and although it’s a short stretch, this is a route which should only be taken on by experienced mountain walkers. A stream also crosses the rocky path below Sarradets which can be iced up, and crampons would be needed here in these conditions. It is 5km one way up to the Bujaruelo pass, another 3km to Sarradets and a further 1km to the breach.
Several days are needed to experience the delights of the the Bujaruelo valley, so if time is short then this section of the visit could be put off for another trip. Full information and bookings for camping and rooms at San Nicolás de Bujaruelo can be found at www.refugiodebujaruelo.com
Read about the GR-11 path which heads out of Bujaruelo to Torla in the next article.
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