The route to Torla from San Nicolás de Bujaruelo is mostly on the GR-11. It’s an undulating path, following the River Ara, passing below the high walls of two gorges, first the Garganta de Bujaruelo and then the Garganta de los Navarros. After Navarros, the countryside opens out, and the mouth of Ordesa appears on the left, with improving views up the canyon as the path descends.
It is always a wrench to leave San Nicolás de Bujaruelo – the green pastureland next to the river nestling below the summits is like a heaven on Earth. Generally walkers are moving out when they head down the Bujaruelo valley. But much will depend on how they arrived at San Nicolás de Bujaruelo in the first place.
The road from Torla which goes to the Ordesa canyon car parks turns left for San Nicolás after around 2km. From the junction it becomes a mountain lane which heads through the two gorges, following the River Ara. Although dozens of people drive up and down this stretch each day during the summer, the route would certainly not be to everyone’s liking and passing another vehicle on the narrow stretches can be difficult.
Those who don’t fancy the drive could do the walk outlined below in reverse to get up to San Nicolás de Bujaruelo, or contact the official mountain taxi firm in Torla to organise a ride. They have a website at www.miradoresdeordesa.es and advertise that they speak English.
The walk to Torla
From the campsite and refuge, cross back over the 13th century footbridge and turn right to follow the signs for Puente de los Navarros and Torla. It’s a well-signed route, with the red/white waymarks of the GR.
The path follows the left bank of the River Ara, first through deciduous forest and pines. The route is undulating, dropping down to the water and then back up to avoid obstacles, but the ascents are only very short. Ignore the first right turn across the river to a campsite, continue on through the shady trees.
The path emerges at a rural road bridge – the Puente de Santa Elena. Here cross over the Ara to start walking on the right bank. The route now enters the spectacular and steep-sided Garganta de los Navarros. The path is a little more undulating to cope with the rocky terrain. It’s a bit of an obstacle course – but fun to walk.
The path narrows for a short and enjoyable section, where there is a metal safety wire to help with balance (see photo). It then passes under weird and wonderful rocks, where climbers have some fantastic pitches to enjoy. Now past the opening of the Ordesa canyon, views up that valley can be appreciated.
As the path rises, short metal bridges and wires have been installed to allow the route to continue through the gorge. Soon it’s back into the woods before even more dramatic sights up Ordesa appear on the left.
When the path divides, take the sign for ‘Torla por San Antón’ – and wave goodbye to the GR-11. After this junction, take the first opportunity to turn left down to the road. Once on the road it’s less than 2km to get back to Torla.
The route back to Torla measures 9.5km. Although it’s mostly downhill there is still around 200 metres of ascent; and more than double that going the other way, from Torla to San Nicolás.
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