This is the best stage of the walk. It’s a wonderful coastal route, taking in some of the most incredible coves on Spain’s shore.
The temptation to take the plunge comes again and again at a succession of beautiful beaches.
This includes my favourite place for swimming on the planet, Cala Jóncols. It’s a protected cove, with deep clear water, surrounded by hills; there’s no intrusive concrete spoiling the views. It’s a small piece of paradise.
The route from Cadaqués to Roses measures 22km. It’s a constantly undulating path which brings 1,154 metres of ascent.
An early start is essential to allow for lots of breaks in the lovely coves. And the swims.
We are back on the GR-92 coast path.
The route out of Cadaqués is a very pleasant one, hugging the shore and following the promenade around the bay.
A GR-92 sign points for Roses and we follow the road, then get onto the asending track.
A white/red waymark on the dry-stone wall on the left of the track shows the way.
Ascending on the track, there’s a turn-off on the left; there’s a waymark and lump of rock to climb up.
Follow the path, gaining height.
The path goes back to the wide track. Passing a refurbished rural property, there are terrific views back over whitewashed Cadaqués.
The track goes round a corner and Cadaqués disappears from site.
We follow the track as it rounds a ravine and then goes over the rise to a plateau.
There’s a barrier across the track. Just before it is a sign which points for the path which goes down to Cala Jóncols.
It’s a gradual descent at first, which becomes a bit steeper as it progresses.
Soon there are wonderful views of the Jóncols cove below.
Keep heading down towards the sea, eventually meeting up with a wide track. Bear left here to walk the short distance into Cala Jóncols.
If the conditions are right, you will want to have a dip. If you’re not a swimmer, there’s shade under the rock on the far side of the beach for a sit down.
It’s a spot that I first visited more than 30 years ago and it holds some special memories.
The staircase on the far side of the beach takes you out of Cala Jóncols for the steep ascent of the hillside, where there are more fantastic views back over this lovely cove.
Eventually the GR-92 passes over the rise and then drops down, before climbing up again to the wide track.
We cross the track to follow the GR-92 waymarks; the route starts another descent on the coast path, with the Norfeu cape and tower away to the left.
Part 2 comes next
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