This, the third stage, goes along the spectacular Cap de Creus peninsula and on to Portlligat, the coastal fishing village that was home to Salvadar Dalí, before continuing to picturesque Cadaqués.
We are walking on the GR-11 again; it’s the final leg of this awesome footpath, which is 16km to the Cap de Creus lighthouse, with 737 metres of ascent.
It’s another 8km to Cadaqués from the end of peninsula, so the total for the day is 24km with around 950m of ascent.
Setting out from Port de la Selva, the GR-11 goes around the rocky headland, following the minor road.
This early section of the route can be avoided if you want by walking straight up the hill out of the back of the town.
Both routes emerge above Port de la Selva (see the first photo).
Following the road, bear left at the large Cap de Creus sign to enter the natural park.
The GR-11 goes along a wide track which skirts a deep ravine and then heads through a wooded section.
We are following signs for the hermitage of Sant Baldiri and the ‘Far’ of Cap de Creus (‘Far’ is Catalán for lighthouse; ‘faro’ in Spanish).
The white/red waymarks of the GR-11 also help with orientation.
On most of the section to the hermitage, and for around 5km afterwards, there are very few coastal views; it’s an undulating route through the interior of the wide, rocky peninsula of Cap de Creus.
The track arrives at Sant Baldiri, where a sign explains that it was inhabited from the 6th century until the end of 18th century. The tower was for protection against pirate raids.
Keep following the signs for Cala Taballera.
The route enters a very up-and-down section; it’s rocky and there’s a bit of a scramble on one of the descents.
The route emerges at a blue sign; keep straight on, now on flatter land on a wide track.
Close to a farmstead a sign states that the Far de Cap de Creus is an hour away; but it’s only around 2km.
There is a minor road which runs to the lighthouse; the GR-11 crosses it and then keeps to the right of it.
Closing in on the lighthouse the GR-11 takes a dive down to the coast on the right; it is possible to walk along the road to avoid this.
At the lighthouse there are spectacular views along the coast; north over the area already walked from Portbou, and south looking over the areas that will be visited in the coming days.
There is a cafe and bar at the lighthouse; it’s a popular spot for daytrippers who arrive by car.
Retrace your steps along the peninsula for around two kilometres, returning to the spot where the GR-11 crosses the road.
Get on the road for a couple of kilometres to walk south-west towards Cadaqués.
Following the road, arrive at a sign on the left which points along a track to Portlligat.
The track goes down through trees then back up to reach a road, where there is a pavement to walk on.
Continue on the coastal route, heading for Portlligat.
The route emerges in the attractive bay of Portlligat. The area has added some concrete since Dalí’s day but it is still a lovely spot.
Head down into the old fishing village; Dalí’s house is on the left with the eggs on top, if you want to see it.
Our route goes to the right of the artist’s former home and climbs the road, passing over the hill and dropping down into Cadaqués.
Cadaqués has become a very busy tourist town, but it manages to retain much of its charm, although it is better to visit out of season.
There are lots of options for hostels and hotels via booking.com
Cadaqués a pleasant town to walk round and there are lots of options for eating and drinking.
The Casino (cultural, not a gambling joint) is great spot for a drink on the seafront and it’s one of the cheapest places for imbibing in Cadaqués.
Recent Comments