This stage of the Camiño dos Faros hike goes along one of the most exposed sections of the Costa da Morte.
It is a wild coastline with waves crashing against semi-hidden rocks which lie in wait to entrap unwary sailors.
More than any other, this rugged shoreline is deserving of the title Coast of Death; dozens of ships have been dashed to pieces during storms over the centuries.
This stage, which runs from Arou to Camariñas, measures 23.8km. It took me around 6.5hrs to complete. We leave Arou on the lane which runs out of the village along the coast. After around 200 metres take the track on the right.
Our route goes round to Lobeiras beach, where old fishing boats line the shore. After Lobeiras, it’s a wild, rocky shore. Short climbs to higher places give great views over the jagged rocks which form tiny, low-lying islands off the coast.
It is often a seething sea, with large waves crashing in, creating a cauldron of noise.
The route goes to the small fishing port of Santa Mariña. Fishing tackle, nets and lobster pots can be seen on the docks, waiting to be used. A long sea wall protects the small boats from stormy seas.
Heading out of Santa Mariña, it’s a wild shore again as the path goes round the headland to reach the Trece beaches.
While the recognised route goes across the dunes, it is easier to traverse as much of the beach as possible, depending on the state of the tide.
At the end of sands, look back to see the giant Monte Branco dune which measures some 150 metres in height.
From the Treces, the path goes between wind and wave-sculpted rocks to reach the Cemiterio dos Ingleses (the English cemetery).
This small, stone-walled enclosure on a lonely stretch of coast commemorates the lives of hundreds of sailors lost in a tragic 10-year period.
Not all those who died in the shipwrecks were English; there were Welshmen and Scots and other nationalities on the three vessels that went down.
These were the SS Iris in 1883, HMS Serpent in 1890, and the SS Trinacria in 1893.
The cemetery is a landmark of the Coast of Death; a poignant reminder of the dangers facing ships on this sometimes fearsome coast during storms.
Part 2 follows
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