After passing the Arnela cove, there is rugged section of coast and our route follows the cliffs along this rocky shore for 3km to the Cabo de la Nave, with its tall antennae on the hilltop.
From Arnela, the path moves out onto the headland and starts to ascend. The wild beauty of this Atlantic shore is never more apparent than here.
Sadly we come to a section that has been affected by a wildfire, which only partially diminishes the splendour of the surroundings. As I walked through, a small herd of mountain goats were feeding, showing their amazing climbing prowess as they negotiated the rocks.
The path flattens out for a while, and the coastline can be appreciated at a leisurely pace. It’s a steeper climb to the masts on a wide track.
Up top it’s time for a breather in the shade, admiring the views over a large expanse of land and sea.
The arrows on the tower indicate how we pass around the antenna to continue walking along the coast, emerging around the back of the site for our first view of Cape Finisterre in the distance.
We take the wide, surfaced track to descend from the Cabo de la Nave. It goes into a wood.
Next up is a right turn, off the surfaced lane and onto a forest track which bears right. Look out for the green dots on tree trunks to make sure you are ‘on track’.
The route passes through glorious forest, then emerges to run between trees and ocean on a section which descends to the Mar de Fora beach.
It’s another beautiful beach; it would take an iron will not to succumb to the temptation of a paddle while walking along the shore.
Our route leaves the beach on the boardwalk which ascends to a stone walkway that eases its way along, bearing right and gently ascending.
We emerge at the village of A Insua, passing a picturesque mural. Now there is only 3.7km left to reach Cabo Finisterre, the Romans’ end of the earth (finis terrae).
The stone track ascends from A Insua following a shady route. As the trees relent, the walker is more aware of going out onto a headland.
Ignore a series of left turns to continue walking along the coast. Pass a point with a fantastic view back along the coast to the Cabo de la Nave.
Then it’s finally time to turn left; there is a green arrow on a rock pointing the way up the track.
It’s quite a long climb, gaining height on the way up to a terrific vantage point at a series of boulders, with a dramatic view over Cape Finisterre.
Now we are on a road, descending to the end of the cape. The views are panoramic and once again the feeling of being in a place of significance is palpable.
We can see the lighthouse and buildings ahead; it’s a down and up and we are there.
A steady stream of pilgrims will be arriving from Finisterre town on the trail which follows the road along the other side of the cape (this is the way we walk back).
On ‘our’ side of the cape, it’s a lonely approach, but much the better for it. I didn’t see a soul (no pun intended).
Stepping from the remote coastline of the western side of Cape Finisterre into what could be described as the human circus of the ‘point’ is a bit disorientating at first.
You have been alone (perhaps) for much of the Camiño dos Faros, but now coaches filled with tourists are pulling up, along with those who have done the journey on foot.
The hawking of tourist tat to the gullible has been restricted in recent years to one relatively small area. We pass this to walk towards the end of the cape, with its crosses and hotel, and of course the lighthouse.
The commercial nature of Cape Finisterre does take something away from this historic spot, but not too much.
You are never going to have it to yourself, so need to turn a blind eye and accept it. Then through your good eye, enjoy the incredible vistas across to Monte Pindo, the mountain across the bay, and along the coast.
When you have had your fill, it’s time to get on the pilgrim trail to walk the 3km to Finisterre town.
Before you leave, there is a bar where a sandwich or chunk of tortilla can be bought to plug a gap in a rumbling stomach.
There are many accommodation options in Finisterre which can be viewed via booking.com
I had reserved a place on the busy bus which goes to Santiago de Compsotela, where high-speed trains can be taken to Madrid.
The buses do get booked up so it is wise to reserve at least a couple of days in advance; this can be done at www.flixbus.es
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