After overnighting at the Góriz mountain refuge – be it in a tent outside, or on a bunk inside – there are mouthwatering possibilities to choose from; after breakfast has been consumed, of course. Three of them are shown on a signpost, a photo of which appears on the reel below. The route outlined here follows a stage of the GR-11 footpath, which heads over to the Pineta valley.
Most importantly, it’s canyon time again. On this occasion it’s amazing Añisclo, another incredible work of nature which runs almost parallel to Ordesa canyon, heading up towards the last of the three sisters summits, the Pico de Añisclo (3,259 metres). There are stunning views down the canyon as the path climbs to the pass of the same name.
An early start from Góriz is helpful – and not as difficult as it sounds as mountaineers will be up and about at the refuge long before dawn to start out on their ascent of Monte Perdido (3,355 metres). Góriz stands at 2,200m and it’s just 1.9km up to the first pass – the Collado de Arrablo at 2,343m. This is a pleasant and easy start to the day, with awesome views back towards the ice-sculpted Góriz cirque and the 3,000-metre peaks which form a wall of rock above it.
At the pass there is a sign advising walkers not to take the old GR-11 route on the Faja de las Olas (this is now the GR-11.9). This is a very difficult traverse and should only be contemplated by mountaineers.
The first part of the descent from Arrablo is quite wonderful, as the scree path quickly runs into mountain pasture. Cows may be grazing this area and pretty soon you will be wondering how they managed to get there. The ‘grass’ disappears as the path enters a ravine – the Barranco de la Fon Blanca.
From here on it’s slow going down a steep, rocky trail in order to reach the Añisclo canyon.
The GR-11 crosses over the stream and then begins the ascent towards the top end of the canyon. I had viewed this section from afar in a previous trip and thought it would be a tough and not very enjoyable climb, particularly with a heavy rucksack. But I was wrong.
Although steep, by Pyrenees standards it’s not a cruel ascent. And it is one the most pleasurable climbs imaginable. The path runs alongside a stream/river up a predominately grassy mountainside. Handily, just under half way up there is a waterfall and pool in the riverbed where the walker can have a dip. I did just that, and emerged feeling refreshed and exhilarated. The water was glacial but the experience was extraordinarily good.
The path continues on and up, bearing slightly to the left, before doglegging right to reach the Collado de Añisclo pass at 2,453m. The views from here back down the Añisclo canyon are spectacular. Looking over the other side into the Pineta valley is also an extraordinary sight. But your heart will sink and legs will wobble as you contemplate the very long and steep descent that lies ahead to reach the valley floor 1,000 metres below. This has to be done if you are ever going to complete the full GR-11 route from start to finish (from the Bay of Biscay to the Mediterranean). However, this is not the day for the Pineta descent and the memory can be locked away for future adventures.
All that remains to be done is to head back down the lovely Añisclo slope, where another swim awaits in the mountain pool, before completing the descent and turning back up the Barranco de la Fon Blanca to return to Góriz, thinking about what the kitchen staff might serve up for the three course meal in the refuge that evening.
There is around 1,500 metres of ascent on this 18-km route, which will take between nine and 10 hours.
What next?
Many walkers will return to Torla from Góriz on the GR-11 footpath, heading down the Soaso cirque and then following the River Arazas as it descends the Ordesa canyon. Just before reaching the River Ara at the bottom of the canyon they will bear left to follow the footpath leading to the GR-15.2 which covers the final short section back to the village.
Others will be tempted to scale Monte Perdido and have another night in the refuge. And some walkers will fancy tackling the path which leads over the Góriz cirque and up to Roland’s breach where there are some spectacular views (see photos); this route would also require another night at the refuge.
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