Galicia
Green and Celtic, this forested Atlantic land is steeped in mythology, ancient rituals and religion. Galicia is a far cry from many people’s image of Spain; in many ways it has more in common with Wales than Andalucía.
This is part of the diversity of the Iberian Peninsula, where very different landscapes, cultures and identities make up a fascinating jigsaw. Locked away in the north-west corner of Spain, Galicia is a product of its climate; Atlantic storms roll in, ensuring that the grass, ferns and forests stay green and healthy.
Predominantly rural, it is famous for its seafood and white wines (Ribeiro, Albariño, etc); and of course the ‘caminos’ which head from all points of the compass to the holy city of Santiago de Compostela. One of the best is the 10-day Camino da Geira e dos Arrieiros, which is covered here.
While the pilgrim trails are often the easiest to follow, there are many other routes for walkers in this region, including a fabulous eight-day hike along the Coast of Death (Costa da Morte) which is also detailed in this section.
Coast of Death – Day 5 (part 2)
A grassy path heads away from the English cemetery along the coast, where rocks off the treacherous cape can be seen close up. Our route reaches a single-track road which has a pavement at the side of it. Bear right for easier walking along the pavement with...
Coast of Death – Day 6 (part 1)
This stage running from Camariñas to Muxía measures 32.6km and the path goes round coastal inlets of extraordinary beauty. The main inlet is the Ría de Camariñas, but rather confusingly there is a second inlet inside this one. The smaller one is called the Ría do...
Coast of Death – Day 6 (part 2)
Leave Cereixo on the CP-1603, walking uphill on the road, with green arrows pointing the way. Notice a turning on the right at a low wall; bear right here, heading off the road to walk up the grassy track. The track turns into a path through the trees which leads back...
Coast of Death – Day 7 (part 1)
If you haven't taken any rest days then you may be feeling the pace by time it gets to day seven. And you probably will want to make it to picturesque Lires at the end of the day, rather than stopping at Nemiña beach as suggested by the organisers, as the latter is...
Coast of Death – Day 7 (part 2)
After leaving the summit of Monte Pedrouzo I opted not to follow the descent to Moreira beach, which is the route of the Camiño dos Faros. It was a spur-of-the-moment decision and, in hindsight, it probably wasn't the right one. I was seduced by a field of lush green...
Coast of Death – Day 8 (part 1)
This is the final stage of the Camiño dos Faros. It's a fantastic day's walking which shows the best of this rugged and uncompromisingly beautiful coastline. The hike from Lires to Cabo Finisterre is 22km and took me just over six hours. Bear in mind that after...
Coast of Death – Day 8 (part 2)
After passing the Arnela cove, there is rugged section of coast and our route follows the cliffs along this rocky shore for 3km to the Cabo de la Nave, with its tall antennae on the hilltop. From Arnela, the path moves out onto the headland and starts to ascend. The...