The alternative headline for this piece is ‘underneath the arches’; with the emphasis on the plural because there are a lot of arches to walk under in this historic town in the north-east of Aragón region.
Anyone arriving in Calaceite and seeing the fields of olive trees around about could be excused for thinking that the town’s name originates from the farming of this important fruit.
The production of ‘aceite de oliva’ (olive oil) is the primary activity in this rural municipality.
However, ‘aceite’ has nothing to do with it. The origin of the place name most likely came from Arabic and a word meaning the ‘castillo de Zayd’ (Zayd’s castle).
The fortress has now gone, but the name remains, albeit in an adapted form.
It was the olive trade which allowed the town to prosper in the 1600 and 1700s; this period saw the construction of the most important buildings such as the magnificent town hall (1609) and the ornate Asunción church (1695).
Today, a stroll through the shady streets allows the visitor to appreciate the construction boom which occurred at that time; edifices built from thick stone.
And plenty of arches. Calaceite has more archways in its streets than any other historic town that I have seen in Spain. Which is no mean feat.
They come with porticoes mostly; but also with tiny chapels above them in some instances.
The arches help to make a tour of the town on foot a very enjoyable experience.
It’s not a big place, with a population of just under 1,000. So exploration can be undertaken without a fear of getting lost.
The main square, the Plaza de España, is a good place to start. And it is a spot that you will be coming back to on your wanderings. The square is one of the few points were food and drink is readily available, in the bar of the Hotel del Sitjar.
After ducking in and out of Plaza de España’s colonnaded walkways and maybe browsing the morning market if its on, entry can be gleaned to the town hall before 2pm via the magnificent old wooden door.
When I strolled in there was no one about and I had a leisurely browse of the ground floor.
This is where you will find the old jail, which a fascinating place. The light switch is outside and the door should be unlocked during the morning. Let yourself in.
Information boards explain the different punishments that were meted out in the 1500 and 1600s.
One of these was public dragging; the offender would be tied at the ankles and pulled by a horse through the streets. We are told that this often preceded death by hanging.
And you could get three days in the jail for being out and about after 10pm without a ‘legitimate reason’.
From the Plaza de España, the world is your oyster. By heading through one of the best archways in town, up Calle Iglesia, you will come to the church.
It’s a considerable height and has many interesting features, not least the main door, which will be open for Mass and has decorative shell-like protrusions covering it.
By following nearby Calle Maella to its end we come to the tiny Virgen del Pilar chapel which is constructed on top of an archway. Of course.
A few streets away is Calle Oncesquinas. Climb this steep narrow alley to reach the Plaza de los Artistas, a tranquil spot were a book can be read or a map can be studied, etc.
A little further up is the highest spot in the town, off Calle Alta, where the phone mast is sited. It’s a good position to look over the roof tops, church and surrounding area.
In the streets you will hear people speaking in Catalan. This is because we are in the Matarraña, an area with 18 municipalities which borders Cataluña, where the natives have traditionally spoken this language.
The main road which runs through the bottom of Calaceite is your best bet for a ‘menú del día’ or a midday meal. However, as my landlady explained, the restaurants are a bit hit and miss and sometimes don’t open.
If you are left hungry, or are in need of sustenance in the evening, then the Hotel del Sitjar bar is a good bet.
Tapas and other options are available but get your order in before 8.30pm. It may be the old threat of jail time for night prowlers which ensures that the locals do their eating and drinking early.
I stayed in Hostal Blavet in Calle Depósito. It isn’t cheap but the owner has lovingly restored and converted a historic building to provide very attractive accommodation.
And on the top floor there are common rooms, where guests can make tea and coffee (supplied free) and use the small kitchen area to prepare light meals.
There is also a mircowave. Not forgetting the roof terrace which offers expansive views over the town and beyond. See more at www.hostalblavet.com
There are many more options for beds in the town, including the Hotel del Sitjar, which can be viewed via booking.com
And, we are walkers, aren’t we? The history of the area pre-dates the Moors and, just outside Calaceite, on the hill opposite, are the remains of an Iberian settlement.
It’s a short walk out to the site, which is definitely worth doing, and will be described in the following article.
From Alicante province, it’s between four and five hours in the car to get to Calaceite; a long way for a quick visit.
However, if you are on the way to the Pyrenees, this a good place to break the journey.
Or, a trip could be combined with visits to other historic towns in the Matarraña such as wonderful Valderrobres.
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